- AREA MEDIA
- L’Artiere Editions
Grafiche dell’Artiere Calendarbook
a MODA loro
Curated by Peter Weiermair, Design by Ice&Ghiaccio K-Lab NY
“For the last few years, the Grafiche dell’Artiere calendar has had a strong focus on photography, in the knowledge that no other expressive medium of the contemporary visual arts opens up such and so many
social, aesthetic, stylistic, formal and experimental possibilities as the analogue and digital production of images. For the first three years, the theme was the traditional, classic still life: a motif which best encouraged the play on associations between the semantic dimension of the months and seasons and the subject observed by the artist’s eye. Renowned photographers agreed to their images being reprinted, framed in a particularly refined manner, with all types of paper and print techniques: a real test bench for Grafiche dell’Artiere.
This year, the dimensions have changed as well as the theme and appearance, with no longer just one, but two images being chosen for each of the international artists in order to better elucidate their work. The calendar thus becomes a publication for collectors and experts of the photographic medium. The theme, which from this point on will change each year, is the dressed person: the individual relationship with the idea of protection and display, with the symbolically demonstrative function of fashion.
Fashion photographers soon abandoned the restrictions of their work, and inside our selection too we find a series of young artists distancing themselves from their typical assignment situations by putting forward in their works traditional imagery in an ironic key. They fuse different genres, playing with the aesthetics of the cinema (A. Prager), eroticism (Luigi de Luca), the portrait (Helen van Meene), publicity (A. Gayton, Matthias Herrmann), performing arts (M. Greber, S. Cohen), and returning an ironic image of society and its false social life (B. Niedermair, A. Smith).
The artist also discovers previously undocumented aspects of fashion (see Nicolas Henderson). The artists involved in performances also often feature in their own works, first and foremost “the last dandy” Luigi Ontani, but also Matthias Herrmann, who plays with fetishes, and the duo M. Greber and Steven Cohen, who transform themselves into a living work of art, motivated by a strict desire to break taboos as well as a provocative corporeality.
Brigitte Niedermair accompanies her Bolzano Mae West through kitsch orgies, in a ‘nightmarish’ high society, while the originally Uruguayan artist Gustavo Ten Hoever celebrates the beauty of the portrait, a theme also present in the lively lyricism of Helen van Meene. The artists concern themselves with the language and imagery of film, for example Alex Prager, inspired by Hitchcock, or Anthony Hayton, with his 40s- and 50s-style group photos which exude hidden eroticism, a theme present in all fashion photography and which often pushes the limits of the permissible.
In this calendar, too, there has been an attempt to position the various contributions in correspondence with the relevant months: among Ontani’s silk drapery, prepared by his sister Tullia, and the parched souls of Parisotto, we find the spring dresses of Helen van Meene, the seaside scenes of Anthony Gayton, which evoke the New Objectivity movement, the November vanitas of Marianne Greber, and the Madame Hirsch images of a European Hollywood ”